Arachne Attire

The Plaid Horror at Midwinter

2012-01-31T23:14:00.002-05:00

Rachel models the finished Plaid Horror at the Midwinter Gaming Convention in Milwaukee this January. It was well received. I think next year, we're looking to add some terrible faux rat fur trim to it, or something equally repulsive. It needs more stuff dangling from it.

I ended up not hitching up the train of the skirt polonaise style, but I think I should have. It looks bigger and more flouncy. Also, I'm thinking a ruffle or something on the bottom of the underskirt.

We'll get you on the best dressed list yet, my dear.

18th Century Casualties

2012-01-18T10:19:00.002-05:00

Damned cat peed in a box that contained the better part of my 18th century wardrobe. It's currently in the wash. I'm trying to save it, but it doesn't look good.

Of course then, I had to be an idiot and put the Indian sari regency dress in with the others, and the dye bled. It's a disaster. I think the synthetics may make it out alright, but the green silk taffeta might be unrecoverable. The petticoat might be ok, but the gown might have danced it's last ball.

Plaid Horror Final Fitting

2012-01-16T17:10:00.006-05:00

So my friend who commissioned this monstrosity recently started seeing a nutritionist. I ended up having to take it in almost an inch and a half on each shoulder seam and an inch at the back. I guess the exercise in tailoring an already-finished garment was worthwhile, but more than a little obnoxious. Now all that needs doing is attaching the flat hooks on the skirts.

The whole idea behind this dress was the contrast of the close-fitting, tailored bodice cut to fit over a corset, the elegant drapery of the 1880s, and the mismatched fabrics. It had to fit perfectly.

As for process, I started with several ugly non-flannel plaid shirts from several different thrift stores, clean and pressed. I used cotton twill as an interlining for added stiffness and basted the two together. The lining is a simple white muslin, and the edges of the armholes are bound in different color plaids. My cat, Marco helped. The front closure is a series of hooks and eyes about an inch apart, and there are a pair of cable ties in the center front helping the bodice to not appear puckered.

1880 Natural Form Research

2012-01-13T08:07:00.002-05:00

A totally surreal experience this morning googling "natural form overskirt" and "1880 overskirt", I kept finding images of my own work. I don't know whether to be happy about that, or disappointed.

The Plaid Horror

2011-12-28T23:38:00.006-05:00

Fabric / Materials: About a thousand old plaid shirts.
Pattern: Truly Victorian with some modification

Introduction: Setting the Wayback Machine to 2006, I made a hideous plaid evening gown for a friend. Recalling it, another friend commissioned a gown with a similar concept. It was dubbed the "Plaid Horror", and work begun on 1880s inspired thrift store chic formal attire. The skirts, both over and under, are adapted from Truly Victorian late bustle patterns. There are larger picture available on arachneattire.com. Just click the picture.

Black Victorian Peachskin Wardrobe Pieces

2011-12-26T16:25:00.005-05:00

I've been busy re-organizing several things, and working on several commissions. The only thing I've really had time to photograph is this growing wardrobe of Victorian wardrobe bits made of synthetic black "peachskin" fabric. The overskirt is new, as are the 3/4 length sleeves. I was going for an allusion to mourning without following the actual constraints. Click the picture to see the page on arachneattire.com.

http://www.arachneattire.com/blackpeachskinvictorian.html

Found an excellent pic from last year

2011-12-13T22:22:00.001-05:00

Busy busy busy working on the Plaid Horror - photos soon to come. Also working on a few new black Victorian wardrobe bits.

An Update for the Navy Blue Anglaise

2011-11-17T10:07:00.003-05:00

I whipped out a matching navy blue silk charmeuse petticoat and a stomacher. Click the thumbnail for a full-length photo. I am now lamenting the fact that I had no decent interlining fabric on hand, but I think for a one-shot, it will work out fine. I intend to wear it like this only once before a full re-working of the bodice.

The only real problem here is the weight and flashyness of the buttons. The character I intend to wear it for detests ostentation. I may change out the silver buttons for black.

In Commission Land

2011-10-17T15:57:00.001-04:00

Current projects:

1. 1560s Venetian
2. 1870s egglplant silk taffeta ballgown. Due November 4! AAARRGGHHH!!!

Tentacles in New Orleans

2011-10-11T21:45:00.004-04:00

The finished product! Fancy dyed lace, ruffles, sleeves on the bodice. Packing the stuffed tentacles into a suitcase was less than awesome. It took up half the space. The Lovecraftian masquerade costume was a big hit.

Hurricane Irene and Vinyl Tentacles

2011-08-28T12:48:00.005-04:00

Nasty weather and staying in unexpectedly on a Saturday night, I started makin' stuff. I have a fabulous skirt that just needs a little extra something. I got the idea to make an ornament similar to the tentacle tail on the emerald green taffeta 1870s-inspired gown for New Orleans this year, but the thought of turning all of those tiny little tubes inside out and stuffing them with polyfill was in no way appealing. I opted instead to make flat sea snake-like tentacles about one inch wide on an identical base.

I must have watched 5 or 6 episodes of Star Trek: Enterprise while flipping tentacles and stitching them down. (Yes, I am a giant nerd.) Now I need to flip and top-stitch about 10-12 more tentacles for the top layer, and make a wasitband. I think this makes a fine alternative to other more cape-like ideas I had to provide some drape and drama to this costume.

Update 3:50 PM: Just a few photos of my tentacle process and some shots of the (mostly) finished product. Very H.R. Giger.

A near perfect match

2011-07-29T12:03:00.002-04:00

My second attempt was much more successful. I filled a chowder pot with just enough water to fully submerge all of my materials, and then added 2.5 teaspoons of Rit Dark Green and Teal. I also added a teaspoon of salt. This seemed to do the trick pretty damned well.

If at first you don't succeed...

2011-07-27T11:11:00.003-04:00

...dye, dye again. I know. I know. It's bad, but I couldn't resist. I hunted everywhere on the internet for hunter green venise lace and other trims. I found absolutely nothing, so I turned to dye. My first attempt on a bit of ivory venise lace came out very dark. I used 2 tablespoons of Rit's "dark green" dye, and a tablespoon of salt in very hot water for about 45 minutes. I think with some teal and less cooking time it would be a fine match to my fabric. The second go around I cooked for a lot less time, used 1/2 teaspoon less dye, and cooked for a a quarter of the time. The result was much paler. I guess I'll have to throw it in again.

I tried dyeing a small piece of one of my favorite tassel trims from JoAnn's in white. It took the dye beautifully, except for the threads it was bound together with. Those were still white while the trim itself was almost black. I tried again with an old scrap of sage green, and it took the dye much better.

I knew this would be a process of trial and error, and I hope it yields gorgeous results.

The Corset's Bad Reputation Lecture

2011-07-26T10:41:00.003-04:00

I've done some work on the structure of my upcoming program on corsets at the museum. I want to make sure I cover misconceptions and people's major questions.

..

Resurrection

2011-07-21T21:21:00.006-04:00

I got some fabulous (and cheap) 4 inch venise lace from eBay, and I happened upon a five year old skull brocade 1880s bodice forgotten at the bottom of the fabric trunk. I made it with an old character of mine in mind, but I could never get the buttons to fit right. One day a few weeks ago, I performed some minor outpatient surgery and replaced he buttons with bound boned edges and a row of hooks and eyes. It fits much better, but I decided it needed more embellishment. I still may add some five inch bullion fringe to the back, but I need to track some down. These are not the greatest pictures, but not bad considering the fact that they're cell phone pictures in bad lighting.

I brought several projects to work on for our week at the beach, but neglected to bring thread. Finally today I picked up some thread at a dollar store, and I was able to attach the lace. I just picked up some venise lace just under 2 inches wide for the neckline and the sleeves. I adore venise lace. I see much more in the future of the tentacle dress, but I need to get moving on a commission for a 1560s Venetian gown.

Tentacles Progress

2011-07-15T11:02:00.003-04:00

I added copious amounts of bullion fringe to the pannier overskirt as well as the bodice. I think it adds texture and a level of interest that it lacked before. Finding trim in hunter green has been difficult. I may end up experimenting with dye. I'm going to try it with some venise lace I had lying around and a bottle of Rit from JoAnn's.

The bag is for my hotel key card, wallet and cell phone. The little green jeweled embellishments I took from a pair of fancy flip flops that I destroyed through wear a few years ago. Something told me I would find a project for them.

Tentacle Hat with Gator Claws

2011-07-11T16:31:00.005-04:00

In Louisiana last year, I acquired a few gator claw keychains that I intended to make hat decorations out of. I took apart the hat from the Ruby 1880s Ensemble that got taken apart and re-invented for this costume. The gator claws are delightfully creepy. I hot glued a pin back to one of them, along with a shank button and small cloak clasp in brass. I may have to attach matching buttons to the bodice now that I see the color combination.

Click the picture to take you to my actual website, and you will find a fully clickable image map with links to full size high resolution photos.

For Sale

2011-07-11T11:13:00.001-04:00

For Sale: Wraith the Great War, A Pirate dress, a Victorian gown, and the Peacock Jacket: http://shop.ebay.com/jeriquan/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Tentacles Pannier Overskirt

2011-07-01T16:54:00.008-04:00

Penelope had some more green taffeta lying around from a nearly 5 year old early attempt at late bustle. I cut it up and tried to approximate the Truly Victorian 1880 Pannier Overskirt pattern as best I could. I didn't have nearly enough fabric, but what came out was pretty darned close. I'm not 100% happy with it, but I have a few ideas. The pattern calls for a line of gathering where I just matched two dots. I may un-do it and go a bit closer to what the pattern dictates. Any thoughts?

Update Saturday July 2, 2011. I re-did the overskirt to look more like what the pattern actually calls for, and I must say I am happy with the side view, but not the back entirely. I think I may have to add that balloon effect and more than a little green 3-inch bullion trim to weigh it down.

Pale Green 1880s Ensemble for Sale

2011-07-01T08:03:00.002-04:00

For Sale on Etsy. Click the picture and check out my etsy shop.

http://www.etsy.com/listing/76956858/pale-green-1880s-ensemble

Tentacles! - Revisited.

2011-06-29T11:11:00.003-04:00

I had a little bit more of the dark green acetate taffeta lying around, and I thought the Tentacles looked a little bare and in need of embellishment. Step one was a gathered ruffle about 7 inches wide before hemming. I used three lines of stitching for a nice tight gather, and zigzag stitched it to the 1878 fantail skirt, hanging down about two inches lower than the hem. The skirt was just a bit too short upon examination of last year's Halloween pictures.

I'm looking out for some dark green venise lace about 3 or 4 inches wide. So far, all I found was an esty seller who seemed to be all out. I wonder if I buy just plain white, some bridal shop can dye it for me. I might also need some velvet ribbon or an inch-wide row of ruching out of the same taffeta to hide the edge of the ruffle. To me, Victorian-inspired Lovecraftian creature costumes look better with heavy embellishment.

Victorian Vinyl: Too big?

2011-06-27T14:35:00.006-04:00

I had some fun figuring out the zipper. I had to cut it down about half an inch, and then stitch the top teeth by hand to create a stopper, as I cut off the one that it came with to get the correct length. It works well enough, but The fit looks a little wonky in the PVC. I may need to take it in a little. Should I futz with it, or just leave it? Where can I take it in?

Update: I took in the darts in the front for a much tighter fit, but I think there is still more I can do to make this perfect. Also, I may add some kind of tail or ruffled embellishment off the back to cover the open lacing panel the skirt has. Better?

Sewing Vinyl

2011-06-21T23:22:00.003-04:00

Sewing the vinyl went a bit easier than I thought until I came to the sleeves. That was approximately as difficult as I thought it would be. I got through one before I started giving serious thought to sewing the second one in completely by hand. No sooner did I got both in place then I realized they were ever so slightly too tight. I'm going to stretch them a bit and see what that does, as it's a mere fraction of a inch. I really don't want to re-cut them. I also don't want the ugly sausage effect on my arms.

Victorian Vinyl

2011-06-19T18:30:00.004-04:00

I love the juxtaposition of period lines and ultra modern, nigh futuristic fabrics and themes. I guess we can call this an off-road adventure in Victorian cyber-goth. The plan is to use the pattern from the tentacle dress and proceed from there in shiny black PVC. This got started because I'm cheap. I have been daydreaming about a Meschantes vinyl corset for over a year now, but I can never seem to scrape together the cash. I got the idea instead to make a ballgown type bodice to go over my existing red corset. I even mashed two sleeve patterns together and did a little trial and error to finally come up with a non-puffed sleeve for this 1870s-inspired off-the-shoulder bodice. The vinyl and lining are all cut out. Now I just need to decide if I want the hidden zipper in the front of the back. Any opinions out there?

Navy Blue Anglaise

2011-05-24T07:35:00.005-04:00

The silk charmeuse is gorgeous, and moves beautifully. However, I used a really crappy inter-lining, and the fit is awful at the shoulder and neckline. I think the white stomacher is a little too much white, and I will re-cut the bodice entirely with a cotton interlining.

I think it is time for me to say goodbye to the JP Ryan Anglaise pattern. The damned thing just never fits quite right at the shoulders and neckline. My next attempt will be with the "Period Impressions" pattern.

This thing also needs some serious sleeve flounces and about a mile of venise lace.

Costumes for Sale AND Taking New Commissions

2011-05-20T07:32:00.000-04:00

A costume closet clean-out featuring Goth boots, a steel boned black corset, a pirate coat, a Chinese-inspired ballgown, and a sewing machine.

http://shop.ebay.com/jeriquan/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

Also, I am taking commissions for costumes for this year's convention season (and beyond). I specialize in the 18th-19th centuries, but I can do a lot of things. Go take a look at arachneattire.com for a few ideas.

Essex Regency Ball

2011-05-19T07:45:00.008-04:00

Me and my mom at the Essex, CT Regency Ball. I made mine out of an "art silk" sari, and hers out of a scandalously little amount of sage green silk charmeuse. The pattern is a mish mosh of the JP Ryan Anglaise pattern I have used many times, and the sleeves from an 1870s ballgown bodice. The rest is loosely based on an illustration in Janet Arnold.

Both gowns went together quickly, and were easy to wear. My mom is so skinny, I didn't even bother with stays for her, and she has good enough posture and carriage that I don't think anyone really noticed. I wore 1770s stays, but really wished I hadn't. If we end up doing another Regency event, I can maybe justify making pair of stays from the period.

It's amazing how much easier it is to move your arms in a puffed sleeve. Trying to do the waltz in a fitted 1880s long sleeve was less fun.

Navy Blue Anglaise

2011-04-16T10:21:00.013-04:00

For 7th Sea, but sort of for reenacting, I started a navy blue silk charmeuse robe a l'anglaise with a cream silk twill stomacher and petticoat. The cream silk twill is understated elegance incarnate. It is this gorgeous grayish pearly cream color that looks like it's softly glowing. The charmeuse is really floaty and moves very dramatically. I got a sweet deal on it on ebay from a seller named "happygoodbuy".

The gown is a full 3 yards, and the petticoat too. I was going for something vaguely reminiscent of an 18th century navy uniform. I was also giving thought to attaching epaulets so I can wear all of my n aval bling with it.

Next step is to put buttonholes in the stomacher and trim the angle on the front so the stomacher lines up correctly. I mis-cut the angle on the front, but that's not such a huge deal. I may end up ordering more fabric for self trim and facings, but now for some creative scrap arrangement.

Update: 11:35 pm - I dragged out the mock up and cut facings around the neckline so the white from the cotton lining would not show. The was not difficult, but tedious none the less. I re-cut the angle on the front, and with any luck, the stomacher will fit in as it should. I got 15 little pearly buttons.

It's more of a Victorian asthetic, but I think it will work. Inside out it has an unfortunate resemblance to a sailor suit, but having the facings there (right side out) will enable me to keep the dress free of trim. Without the facings, I would likely have used ruching to hide the white poking out from the lining. The character I intend to use the dress for is not exactly the frills and lace type, so the simpler the better.

I actually added sleeve flounced, but I may take them off again. They kind of spoil the whole simplistic understated elegance thing I had going on.

Update 10:33 am Sunday - Trimmed blue gown and hemmed it. Next up is fussy finishing work, and ripping my way through thirteen buttonholes. I want to drive through this project quickly because I have three more to get done before the second week of may! I have my 1812 Sari Ballgown, my mom's sage/olive green silk charmeuse 1812 ballgown and a commission for the museum. Busy busy!

Corset Myths

2011-03-01T14:10:00.004-05:00

What do you know about corsets in the Victorian era? How much is our perception of them shaped by the movies we watch? What is your idea of corsets and corseting in the 19th century?

Corsets - Tool of Social Control or Just Underwear?

2011-02-11T12:33:00.003-05:00

I'm working on a research project at the museum for a potential lecture on popular misconceptions regarding corsetry in the late 19th century. It feels good to be back in the library. I have a trip to the old alma mater to do some more serious academic research in the near future.

You know the heroine in every adventure movie that takes place in the past ever? The one who 'can't breathe' when she's laced into a corset? She is lame. I have always thought such scenes were cheap ploys aimed at modern audiences designed to get them to sympathize with her and view her as "fiesty" and dynamic.

Was the corset in the Vicorian era in particular a tool for social control? Or was it just underwear? I plan to examine how it is used in popular imagery in our own time, and how it would have been viewed by everyday folks in the 19th century in addition to the criticism laid down by physicians and feminists alike.

It seems everyone has an agenda where the corset is involved. Let's see if we can find the truth somewhere in the middle.

Victorian Ballgown Bodice Trim

2011-02-07T17:31:00.003-05:00

I added ruched self-trim to the neckline as well as bullion fringe and tassel trim to the bottom back edge. Some tassel trim around the already lace-edged sleeves makes it even more dramatic than it was before. Next up, buttons and hooks and eyes for the front.

The result of near constant daydreaming

2011-02-05T15:30:00.006-05:00

Fabric: Eggplant Purple Silk Taffeta

Patterns:

- Underskirt: 1878 Fantail Skirt TV 225
- Overskirt: 1880 Split Pannier Overskirt TV 328
- Bodice: 1875 Ball Gown Basque Bodice TV 416

I had a sample of the most beautiful deep eggplant purple silk taffeta from Renaissance Fabrics. I have also been inspired by SG's recent foray into Victorian natural form. I have decided that I want to do a natural form ensemble for New Orleans this September. It packs up smaller for air travel than late bustle, as much as I love my lobster tail cage bustle. After much doodling and near constant daydreaming on the subject, I have decided to move forward with it.

Several rows of texturally interesting self trim, beaded tassel braid from the home dec section of the fabric store, and possibly some black venise lace, I intend to dazzle with this project. It also has the added bonus of not requiring a new corset or new underpinnings.

Snow Day Accidental Obsession

2011-02-01T19:58:00.004-05:00

More snow, more snow and more snow resulted in this 4 gore 1880s underskirt with three layers of trim. I plan on making a matching overskirt and ballgown bodice for Baltimore this April.

Uncharted territory - 1812!

2011-01-18T12:51:00.005-05:00

Teal 1812 Ballgown | Fall/Winter 2010

Fabric: Teal acetate taffeta embroidered with a gold vine pattern

Pattern: Draped by me.

For a fundraiser for a CT fife and drum corps this May. I started with the JP Ryan Anglaise pattern I have used so many times before as well as a peek into Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. There were some fitting issues. The modified Anglaise pattern I used ended up a little too big over my 1770s stays. My friend, SG over at Penelope's Needle commented that the gathering at the neckline had a a bit of a list to the starboard.

With some help from SG, fitting issues were solved. I ended up gathering the sleeves in rather than pleating them. To cut down on bulk, I decided to not gather the lining. Just pleated ever so slightly at the bust.

Chinese New Year Dress

2011-01-18T10:05:00.005-05:00

This dress narrowly avoided getting racked in the closet indefinitely. I finally finished it, tried it on with and without the corset. I came to the immediate conclusion that it needed boning in the back to avoid puckering. In went the cable ties, but it still did not fit. I am not sure how it happened, but there was a 2 inch gap in the back at the top.

I also accidentally fell in love with this black and white Chinese dress.

I was about to abandon it for good when a friend happened to be over the house. A friend who needed a dress for the very same event. Lo and behold, it fit. I'm glad the effort I put into it was not wasted, and could be appreciated at the event.

Sewing Machine for Sale

2010-12-26T13:21:00.003-05:00

I just got a fancy new sewing machine, and I'm selling the old one. Yours for a mere $75! Follow the link to ebay.

An 18th Century Commission

2010-12-13T23:34:00.004-05:00

A teaser. A promise of things to come regarding this copper colored silk 18th century gown I made for a friend from reenacting. It has box pleated trim around the sleeves at the elbow and around the neckline. I love how flattering the lines came out.

Glitter and Gloom Dilemma

2010-12-09T10:06:00.005-05:00

I checked my stash, and I only have 2 yards and change of the skull brocade. That'e enough to squeeze out a Victorian bodice, but nowhere near enough to make an 18th century Anglaise. It seems I have to reconsider my options.

Option 1: Buy more skull brocade off ebay at $15 a yard. I'll need about 4 yards.
Option 2: Use the 2 yards I already have to make a Victorian bodice and use the late 1880s-inspired gear I've already got.
Option 2: Use the sari I wore to New Orleans to make an 18th century gown and go for the "glitter" side of Glitter and Gloom.

Option one will cost approximately $50. Options 2 and 3 will cost nothing.

Thoughts?

Steampunk Tea at the Mark Twain House

2010-12-08T15:43:00.005-05:00

Back on October 30, I attended a Steampunk Tea at the Mark Twain House. Janel was kind enough to snap a few pictures for me, and I thought I would share. Click the image to see a few more over at my main website.

Works in Progress

2010-11-28T12:49:00.000-05:00

I did a few updates over at the main site: www.arachneattire.com. I've got the beginnings of a navy uniform for a LARP, and a handful of other things. Enjoy.

Tentacle Dress, at long last

2010-11-24T20:12:00.005-05:00

Not the greatest pictures in the world, and not quite as alien sea creature as I originally intended, but still a bizarre little twist on the 1870s. I ended up using Norwegian clasps on the front because I didn't have a machine I could use to put buttonholes in it. I think it worked. There are cable ties stiffening the center front.

Chinese New Year Ball

2010-11-24T12:31:00.006-05:00

In honor of an upcoming Chinese New Year themed midwinter ball, I whipped out this brocade dress. I figured many people would get the cheongsam idea, and I couldn't stand the thought of wearing what everyone else was wearing. I used Butterick 6533 as a base, but added a pleated fish tail thing in the back. My thought was to capture the sensibilities of someone who came of age in the bustle era. I did not want to out and out wear period clothing to this event, but rather wanted to give a nod in it's general direction.

The shrug is a separate piece, and man was it a pain to fit. Modern tailoring and pattern shapes confuse me. I cut my teeth on the 18th century. These modern curved lines just upset me.

The boys of course had a great time with the fabric that was all over the place. The next step is to attach the lining and decide on a closure.

I had briefly considered a zipper, but then I remembered that I hate them. I'm thinking instead eyelets and ribbon for a lace-up back, but maybe loops and buttons or some kind of frog closure would be more exciting. Thoughts?

Garnet 1878 Fantail Skirt

2010-10-01T01:34:00.007-04:00

I can't claim credit for the corset (meschantes.com), but the skirt I made to wear with it. It's a cheap acetate taffeta in dark changeable red with self and braided trim. It's really quite simple. It's gathered at the back, and there's a little decorative strip buttoned on for flourish where the fantail begins.

I rigged up a hitch for the train with a side loop and button that also holds a matching drawstring tassel bag for hotel room keys, money and other goodies. It's not at all bad on comfort when the train is hitched up. I wore it dancing at a club for hours with no issues.

A Wedding Comission

2010-09-10T09:32:00.006-04:00

By a fortunate twist of fate, I was asked to design a wedding gown for a lovely lady in the frozen north. After exchanging a long series of web images, I think I finally have something that fits the description of what she wants: Victorian inspired, off the shoulder, wrap top, bouffant skirt. She wanted to not have to wear a corset, but still wanted to maintain the allusion to the period. Here's the first mock up modeled by another friend down in CT.

The image on the left more closely follows the pattern I took inspiration from with shirring on the sides and where the wrap crosses, but the image on the right I think I like better. It's less forgiving, but it has smooth lines and an elegant shape. The fabric she chose is a nice heavy weight silk.

The back for this mock up is the same as the one for the tentacle dress, but back lacing.

The skirt, I'm toying with Truly Victorian's natural form "Fantail" that I have used many times, and the 4 gore underskirt with poufs tied in.

7th Sea Coat

2010-09-05T20:15:00.006-04:00

Adapted from the Simplicity Totally Not Jack Sparrow pattern, this coat is a blending of 17th century, 18th century and Napoleonic awesome for a privateer captain with an over-developed sense of justice. It's nowhere near historically accurate, but for a game that involves, pirates, napoleon, king arthur and baba yaga, I think I'll be OK blurring the lines a bit.

The waistcoat is an adaptation of JP Ryan's 18th century waistcoat. It has 18 tiny buttons, working pockets and fitted lines. It's made of heavy weight linen, and I have found after several plain white linen 18th century military waistcoats for reenacting, top stitching on all the edges goes a long way to reinforcing the structural integrity of such a flimsy fabric.

What to do with tentacles...

2010-09-03T11:16:00.006-04:00

Remember all of those acetate taffeta tentacles stuffed with the contents of two bags of polyfill that I intended to wear on my head? About that... I made the hat. It was a simple semi-oval affair with a thick elastic band. I even attached the tentacles in different widths with the idea that it would look like grotesquely elegant sea creature 'hair'. Unfortunately, it weighed so much, I couldn't stand it. So, I abandoned the hat idea and went instead for a sort of apron affair that clips around the waist. It looks just as grotesquely elegant, but hurts a lot less.

The bodice is an altered version of Truly Victorian's off-the-shoulder 1870s early bustle ballgown bodice. I modified it so it was more natural form. I also shaped the back into two points to it would sort of resemble a fish tail and make a nice outline for the tentacles. The skirt is the straight up TV Fantail. I meant this project from the beginning to be a costume rather than a serious reproduction, so there are more than a few concessions.

For the bodice, I was thinking of a long row of tiny mother of pearl buttons. Possibly some glass pearl beading at the neck line, or maybe some orderless self trim with some dangly bits to further suggest "sea witch". I have yet to put in buttonholes or anything else, and the bodice is unattractively pinned to norma-jean (the dummy) whose dimensions are slightly different than my own corseted dimensions.

The tail is the top half of a tea drop shape inverted. The tentacles in various widths were sewn in between the layers and where the waistband attaches for a cascading effect. The base is reinforced with cotton twill and clips together using flat skirt hooks. This will be much more comfortable than wearing them on my head. Now I just need to figure out some kind of train hitch so the fantail doesn't get in the way while doing the waltz and tango.

Items For Sale

2010-09-02T11:38:00.005-04:00

I'm in the process of cleaning out closets, making room and looking to recoup some damage on a few items. Take a look over at ebay at:

Gothic Marie Antoinette - $29

Indian Fire Victorian Bustle Ensemble - $99

Brown and Gold Painted Kimono - $30 or best offer

Own a nice piece of original art and help me feed my fabric addiction!

Uh oh....

2010-08-03T11:40:00.006-04:00

I have started thinking along the lines of a silly frilly 18th century gown in pale pink for next year's 18th century social events. I even ordered a swatch of this fabric from renaissancefabrics.net. This Gainsborough portrait of Mary, Countess Howe (c.1760) is not exactly the right period for me, but I think I can use it as inspiration.I see this thing dripping in lace and positively ridiculous. Now, francaise or anglaise?

Preview: Tentacles!

2010-07-30T13:57:00.003-04:00

In honor of an upcoming Halloween masque, I decided to make a hat/wig with lots of shiny green tentacles in different widths. I think I may pair it with a matching mermaid skirt/corset combo and the mask from the Pride dress last year.

Red and Gold Bustle Dress For Sale

2010-07-19T19:32:00.005-04:00

I have recognized that I will never wear this again, so I have decided to sell it. Check it out if you're interested.

ebay username: jeriquan

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270613704320&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

17th Century Ensemble Update

2010-06-29T14:51:00.007-04:00

June 29, 2010: After much hand sewing, we had a functional pair of front and back lacing stays suitable for the 17th and 18th centuries. Now with the major underpinnings finished, starting on fitting the jacket could begin. I started with a mock up cut from the Reconstructing History English Civil War pattern. A few minor tweaks later, I was ready to cut into the linen. The lady chose a vibrant mustard yellow for the jacket.

The stays are pretty straight up. I used cable ties for the bones, and strips of the same un-dyed linen for binding. With the straps, it gives a lot of support but does not really restrict movement. Now I just need to replace the somewhat less-than-period cord with some linen tape.

Stays Update

2010-06-16T15:46:00.004-04:00

Binding: All of the tabs had to be done by hand. This was tedious, time consuming and hard on my hands, but I still have not figured out how to do it on a sewing machine. I don't really consider this a commentary on my lack of skill. It's more 'authentic' this way. Yeah. That's it.

Buttonholes: Since her audience will likely see her stays during the educational show, I figured metal grommets would be a bit too anachronistic, so I went with the next best compromise: small machine stitched buttonholes. Hand bound lacing holes would take too much time for the price to stay reasonable.

June 16, 2010: After hours of painful hand binding, we have arrived at our long anticipated conclusion (of this part). Now I am ready to fit the jacket over the stays and linen shift. The shift is made of a heaver linen than I might have liked, but it's for a range of characters, some of whom are less than upper class.

I will be adapting the pattern from Reconstructing History for a 1630s look.

Linen Stays

2010-06-09T15:03:00.006-04:00

What's light on one side, dark on the the other and holds the universe together? No, not the Force. Duct tape!

I was hired by a friend to make a 17th century wardrobe for a one woman show on witchcraft. Figuring I needed to stat from the foundation up, I started on a pair of stays that could work for both the 17th and 18th centuries out of natural un-dyed linen. To make a patter, I wrapped her and an old tshirt in duct tape.

This allowed me to get a great approximate shape of her torso and the position and length of the straps without actual pattern drafting skills. After I had the general shape I wanted, I stuck pins in to mark the natural waist and other landmarks, and cut it off of her. I then used this duct tape exoskeleton (combined with a bit of reference from the Simplicity 18th century underpinnings pattern) to make the actual stays.

Visit arachneattire.com/ginny.html for all the pictures!

The Trashiest Skirt Ever (tm)

2010-04-29T12:18:00.001-04:00

Fabric: Furry leopard print from the remnants at JoAnn's
Pattern: Draped by me

When I saw the remnant of the fuzzy leopard print stuff, I knew it was for Gianna - a Jersey Girl I play in oWBN Sabbat. I quickly cut it out in this lovely pencil skirt shape, but I was unsure of what to do with the closure. I hate zippers, and buttons weren't really an option. I settled on the trashiest thing I could think of: eyelets!

Take a look over at arachneattire.com/leopardskirt.html for more pictures.

A Steampunk Suit

2010-04-27T22:44:00.004-04:00

January 2010

Fabric: Synthetic brown and gold Sari bought off e-bay
Pattern: Based on TV four-gore skirt pattern, modified to be worn without a bustle, and a doublet-esque bodice draped by me.

I am still not entirely sure where I was going with this or what I was doing, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. At one point I had an idea to go to a rennaissance faire dressed as a neo-victorian time traveller who was aiming for the actual renaissance and missed. Call it boredom, call it distraction - but certainly don't call it period.

A few updates to arachneattire.com

2010-04-25T11:36:00.002-04:00

April 15, 2010 - 7th Sea Dress, for the Beltaine Ball.

April 15, 2010 - VE Day Dress, for a WWII themed picnic this May.

16th Century Stays

2010-02-25T15:40:00.001-05:00

Sewing. Tabs. By. Hand. Ugh!

Black Velvet Mini Top Hat

2010-02-23T00:07:00.007-05:00

Like most of the fabric covered hats I make, this one was entirely un-planned. I bought the straw frame at a Bakers shoe store, and went to town on it with pieces of an old velvet skirt I inherited. What follows is an explaination of process without the benefit of official millnery terminology.

I cut out two ovals with pinking shears following the general shape of the brim and crown. I left some extra space to cover over the top and bottom of the brim and so the crown pieces would hang down a bit. I then cut a strip to go around the band.

The piece around the brim has a hole cut in the center. Through this hole, I slipped the hat. You might be able to make out the little triangles I cut out of it around where the fabric touches the actual straw. This has the effect of making the fabric lay straight on the frame.

Next, I attached the brim cover with a simple straight stitch around it's edge. I then gathered the rest of the fabric draw string style, and tacked it down on the inside, sewing along where the crown attaches to the brim. The crown cover was relatively simple to attach.

Next the band went on, hiding the ragged edges of the crown and brim covers. This was a little awkward, as I used an invisible stitch, which I'm sure has a very descriptive and practical name. I tried to capture it in the picture in thumb #6. I left the inside un-finished, and attached a plastic comb that came with the hat from Bakers. A few pieces of Black Lady Church Hat trimmings later, and we were in business.

Click on the thumbnails to see larger images - as always.

Project Costume Box

2010-02-11T09:57:00.004-05:00

I, and a few of my sisteren have been commissioned with the task of filling the Honor and Steel costume box with as many kimono/haori etc as we can. Somewhere on the order of 115 yards of cotton in different colors has been purchased, and the first few have made it to game. Last night during the snowstorm, I threw together a full length kimono in deep blue. Enlisting the help of DN, I painted the mon of the Crane clan on the back. One down, a bajillion to go.

A Closure Solution

2010-02-04T17:15:00.003-05:00

January 2010: Update - The flat skirt hooks on the front closure just never worked. They're not even remotely period correct, they pull in terrible looking directions, and they're a pain to do up. I lost patience with them, and installed metal eyelets, and now the entire garnment just looks better. I saw something similar in an extant piece in the collection of the Mark Twain House and the V&A Museum online.

1912 Project

2010-02-03T11:59:00.004-05:00

Fabric: ??

Pattern: ?? - but inspired by the Alfred Angelo bridesmaid dress I wore to a friend's wedding as well as a drawing on page 192 of JoAnne Ollan's Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from La Mode Illustree - . "Ball toilette" - White charmeuse with green pailletted braid. Surplice bodice; the front is decorated with small rounded corselet of emerald silk. The sleeves are edged with beaded fringe.

I intend to make something similar someday. Now ask me for what.

Travel Tea Box

2010-01-29T09:46:00.002-05:00

January 2010

Fabric: Red velvet from a torn up skirt, leftover black crepe
Pattern: Trial and error

I often bring a tea set to various LARPs, and I needed a way to transport it without fear of it being broken. Foam seemed a natural choice. DN's mother had some foam leftover from a custom made windowseat, so I took a razor to it to make fitted inserts for a cheap little tea set I bought at the Asian grocery store.

Step one: buy tea set and find a box big enough for it.

Step Two: Cut foam in the size and shape of the box.

Step Three: Trace the shapes of the teapot and cups in the foam. Step Four: Use the razor blade to score the foam, and then pick it out with fingers in the shape of the teapot and cups.

Step Five: Cut foam to fit the top half of the box, and make necessary cut-outs so the teapot and cups fit snugly between the two layers.

Step Six: Cover foam with fabric and secure with hot glue in the recessions and on the back.

To see the nitty gritty of the process and the how to, visit http://www.arachneattire.com/teabox.html

Green Wool Frock Coat

2010-01-07T21:33:00.002-05:00

Conceived as a novelty from the leftovers of AS's coat, I combined the neckline of the JP Ryan waistcoat, the box pleats of the JP Ryan frock coat, and the general shape of the simplicity pattern. I removed the godets the Simplicity pattern calls for - the fullness is more reminiscent of the 17th century - and added a rather 19th century looking standing collar.

I think the collar could have used something to stiffen it - or maybe I'll remove it. It's itchy and in an awkward place, but it looks somewhat unfinished without it. Also, the cotton lining does not slide the way I would like, and clothes worn under the coat bunch up in terrible ways. I suppose it's a work in progress. I intended to wear it as an every-day outer garment, but the buttons and general anachronistic feel make me a bit apprehensive about wearing it in public as clothing and not some theatrical costume.

Hooded Coat

2009-12-29T11:04:00.001-05:00

Fabric: Dark green wool, cotton sateen for lining
Patterns: JP Ryan Frock Coat; JP Ryan Waistcoat, (heavily modified)

December 2009 - Commission for a friend who loved Rogue's coat from the first X-Men movie. I lengthened the JP Ryan frock coat pattern, and used the front piece from the wasistcoat pattern. A hood from one of Simplicity's many cloak patterns and about a million buttons later, we had a fabulous piece of finery.

Don't forget the site: http://www.arachneattire.com/hoodedcoat.html

Norma Jean Continued

2009-12-09T18:33:00.010-05:00

Pre-Op
A few months back, I had attempted to shave down the foam to a better shape. It took me a while to develop a workable slice and shave technique with the razor, but eventually I got it. The breasts, aside from being far too large were situated too low on the torso. The rear end was also a bit too low. I think I had the right idea with my series of amputations, but I did not go far enough.

Post-Op
I took the breasts completely off and went to town on the waistline and back. It looks a bit like an apple someone has been eating.

Polyfill Stuffing
I used polyfill to stuff the areas that needed stuffing. Hopefully the decreased density will make it possible to strap a corset on the dummy now.

Norma Jean

2009-11-30T18:01:00.005-05:00

My Uniquely You dress dummy. We named her Norma Jean beause of her... endowments.

I got the bright idea from another costumer's website thinking that it would be cool to be able to fit period garnments over the proper underpinnings strapped to a squishy dummy that was me-shaped. Unfortunately, I got a dummy that was far too large, and I underestimated the density of the foam. What follows is a chronicle of our adventures.

Fitting the sheath

This project involved help from SG in porportion to Norma Jean's massive foam breasts. Several hours of swearing, pinning, stitching and walking around the house in the most fashionless garnment known to man, we had an approximation of my shape. The only trouble was the fact that I ordered a dummy based on my largest measurement: my hips. The dummy with 40 inches at the widest point on the bottom had a 50 inch chest, and the sheath I ordered was way too small. This resulted in six inches of exposed foam at the bottom of the dummy. The cat is pleased with this, but he is the only one. I think if I do this again, I will order a dummy that is too small and pad out the sheath. That way, it will have the necessary squish to strap it into stays.

Sins & Virtues Masquerade Ball

2009-11-18T20:33:00.005-05:00

The event is finally over. The stand-up collar I ended up using a piece of creased cardboard covered with silk with a silk-covered plastic cable tie reinforcing it at the center. The feathers are hot-glued on, and the seam at the neck and the glue mess are covered with a pleated band of the silk.

The idea behind this whole costume is pride. Hopefully the massive amounts of peacock feathers get the point across.

The Destruction of an Enemy

2009-11-05T17:07:00.006-05:00

I finally destroyed the old red anglaise. I cannibalized it for parts to make a cartridge pleated overskirt for my red Elizabethan. I must say, cartridge pleating was a lot easier than it looked once SG showed me how to do it. It really does provide a lot of volume. Also, it's the only way to get 8 yards of fabric pleated to a 30 inch waist band.

The overskirt in the photo is 4 yards of what was formerly the greatest tragedy of my 18th century portfolio. I guess this means I now have to add a renaissance section to the website.

Hoops or no hoops?

2009-10-13T15:22:00.011-04:00

(As always, click on the tumbnails to see the the larger images hosted at arachneattire.com) Chugging along on the Pride dress for the second weekend in November. Now the big question is: pocket hoops or just a quilted petticoat?

Also, adding another line of stitching on the ruched sleeve trim made all the difference. I also took out some of the volume on the recommendations of the readers of a certain LJ group. Now all there is to do is hemming.

Almost Done

2009-10-05T20:21:00.009-04:00

I decided to take off the ruched trim on the overskirt. I didn't plan ahead for it, and I couldn't figure out how to manage it with the pleats without completely taking the whole thing apart. I added Ruched trim on the sleeves, all along the neckline and down the front. The only things left to do are finish the hooks and eyes and a few other fiddly bits.

The white linen flounces with Venise lace trim are detachable!

As for the trim on the sleeves, I'm still not sold. Any other ideas out there that might help to disguise the fact that the sleeves are pieced together at the elbow with an extension?

Pride - Sleeves & Trim

2009-09-28T22:27:00.002-04:00

Today I re-attached the amputated lower part of the sleeves. I thought that the above-the-elbow look would be a good one, but then I couldn't find any period images that supported it. I'll cover the seam with ruched trim eventually.

It was then time to address the trim issue. I had been trying to put 4 inch wide ruched trim down the front of the dress as an after thought. This failed. I didn't pleat the thing in a way that could accomodate the trim without completely dismantling it. Rather than give myself a headache a month from the deadline, I scrapped it. Maybe I'll use it on the petticoat.

Pride - 18th Century Robe à l'Anglaise

2009-09-23T16:49:00.017-04:00

Fabric: Emerald green silk taffeta from renaissancefabrics.net

Pattern: J. P. Ryan Robe à l'Anglaise, heavily modified.

This dress will be doing double duty for the Northeast Event 2009 and various reenacting events. Inspired in part by ball scene in Bath in The Duchess combined somewhat with the striped dress from the scene in the park. I have every intention of re-inventing the Peacock Dress from 2004, but I wanted to do it as an actual period piece to which I could add things. I also plan on making a pair of hair clips reminiscent of the headdress Nicole Kidman wore as the Hindu Courtesean in Moulin Rouge. There will be many peacock feathers involved.

August 4, 2009

In preparation, I had S.G. help me with the bodice fitting. The re-cut mock up was then immediately applied to some spare red and gold brocade I had to create a new bodice for this three-year-old travesty. As soon as I get more fabric for the sleeves, we'll be good to go. She took in the side seams a bit, left the two back pieces as they were, and re-shaped the center front. All in all, easy enough. About an inch was taken out of the side front piece, an inch added at the bottom of the center front, and the shoulder straps were shortened by about two inches. Hopefully this will mean the neckline no longer does that unfortunate gap thing.

August 7, 2009

Well, the good news is the neckine fits, but that's about it. First, I sewed the shoulder straps on backwards. Then, the armholes were way too small, and I couldn't move my arms in it. I cut about an inch off the armholes, sewed the sleeves back on, and... still too small. Not. Fair.

The cotton in the mock-up stretches, the acetate brocade does not. I'm trying to get the kinks out of this pattern before my emerald green silk arrives.

On a positive note, we did shorten the strap on the front piece so that the horrible gaping problem is no longer an issue. We'll see if I can defeat this damned red and gold acetate.

August 11, 2009

GAARRRAGH!!!! WTF. I cannot believe I have to re-cut!. I thought I had a spectuacular mock-up that fit well. The silk arrived, and I got all excited and cut into it, pinking the edges and everything. I tried it on over stays after a quick assembly and... disaster. I could not move my arms, and the back neckline looked like I had a bone density problem. I think the issue is that the back pieces are too narrow, and the shoulder seams are placed too close to the spine. Hopefully I'll be able to save the sleeves at least.

After collecting myself, I had a little adventure in draping. Using the existing pattern pieces as guide lines, I lined up my own brand new back pieces using a piece of white cotton pinned to Norma Jean. Now the shoulder seams line up with my actual shoulders. Comparing with the drawings in Patterns of Fashion and the work of other costumes, I'm pretty sure that's what needed to happen. Now I just need a little help tweaking a few things that I can't reach myself. Next round, I'll fit the new mock-up with the sleeves actually attached, so there will be no surprises.

August 15, 2009

I got DN to help me with the seams I couldn't reach. At first he was scared, but after a little coaxing, he did a fine job fitting the center back and shoulder seams on the new pieces for me. It's terribly difficult to explain how to do it if the person you're explaining it to doesn't know any sewing terminology at all, but all things considered, he did a wonderful job. I decided to do the intelligent thing and try the new mock up on with sleeves attached. It's just a tad tight, but nothing unbearable. I'll salvage the sleeves from take one, and see where that gets me.

August 17, 2009

Fitting finally done, I pleated three yards of the fabric to the bodice. I decided to approach the challenge of the back point a little differently this Anglaise. Instead of trying to pleat around the weird shape, I pleated a straight row across with the idea that I'd stitch the actual point over it. I also attached the sleeve flounces with pinked edges.

August 19, 2009

Cut out a lining, shaped the neckline a bit. This horrid, garish purple silk dupioni was calling to me at Jo-Ann's today when I went to look at black lace for sleeve flounces. It's very thin, and runs if you're not careful, but for a costume entitled "Pride", I can't think of anything better. I'm considering top-stitching around the neckline so the lining stays in place.

August 30, 2009

Still on the list for things I'll need for the project:

- Pocket hoops - smaller than the ones I made from the JP Ryan pattern a few years ago out of the same red Chinese silk my stays are covered in, which I found online from Good Orient

- Bum roll made from the same Chinese silk

- Trim: I think I'll go with a ruched trim of the same fabric as the dress about 3 inches wide at the elbow and down the front of the gown, narrower at the neckline.

- Black lace and light weight silk for detachable sleeve flounces.

- Boning down the front center, hook and eye closures
The petticoat

September 22, 2009

With school now in session, things are slowing down, but I managed to get considerable finishing work done in the last week and a half. I put bones in the front (plastic cable ties), and a strip to hide any gap between the two front edges. I started putting on hooks and eyes, but I can only do so many at a time - tedious work, that.

I took off the sleeve flounces. I didn't like how the pinked scalloped edges were fraying. I may put them back on, or I may leave them cut above the elbow. Time to consult period artwork.